Special Report Languedoc-Roussillon Tim Atkins MW

LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON 2023 SPECIAL REPORT for TIM ATKIN, by MATTHEW STUBBS MW

 timatkin.com

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Mas Gabriel Clos des Lièvres 2019 95/100 

 70%/Grenache 30%. Languedoc - Pézenas (14.5%)

More flattering at this stage than the 2020 with just a notch more richness and concentration.This extra depth is not at the expense of freshness nor the garrigue notes which are abundant.Tannins are still firm but extremely polished, no rough edges here and there is still an element of understatement to enhance the fine laid-back appeal. More Lester Young than Coleman Hawkins befitting of Peter's love of Jazz and the Tenor Saxophone which rested in the corner as a backdrop to our tasting. 2023-2032

Mas Gabriel Clos des Lièvres 2020 94/100

Languedoc-Pézenas. Syrah 70%, Grenache 30% (14.5%)

On the terraced soils around Caux, mostly basalt but some sand and Villefranchian gravel.Deep purple colour, with beautiful purity of blueberry fruit, tapenade and black pepper. Firm yet fine tannins kick in on the finish to suggest long ageing potential as does the fine backbone of acidity. 2025-2035

Mas Gabriel Les Trois Terrasses 2021 93/100

IGP Pays d'Hérault. Carignan 80%, Syrah 10%, Grenache 10% (14%)

Too much Carignan here to be allowed as AOP Languedoc but who really minds when it is this good. Really gorgeous attack, all violets and hibiscus, then quickly followed by black cherry, fine tannins and a touch of smokiness from the basalt soils, no oak here. Windy and rocky, only 20hl/ha, 70 year old Carignan vines - you could almost be in the Corbières but that smokiness from basalt puts you firmly in Caux. 2023-2029

Mas Gabriel Les Trois Terrasses 2017 92/100 

IGP Pays d'Hérault (14%)

An older vintage of Trois Terrasses to show how it can age. Less intense than the 2021 and if anything more herbal and smoky. Great balance and extremely mouthwatering with no loss of freshness. 2023-2026

Mas Gabriel Clos des Papillons 2021 93/100

IGP Pays d'Hérault. Carignan Blanc 100% (12.5%)

Owner Peter Core says they 'punch above their weight with Carignan Blanc' at this estate referring to the fact that they have 1 hectare of this variety at their small 6 hectare property close to Pézenas. Not that aromatic but really comes alive on the palate with notes of grapefruit peel, lime zest, juniper and wild fennel. Mostly 55 year old vines, low yields 20hl/ha give fine depth and balance and a very mineral and lively finish. 2023-2031

Mas Gabriel Clos des Papillons 2019 92/100

IGP Pays d'Hérault. Carignan Blanc 100% (13.5%)

A chance to see how this wine ages, which has opened out more than the 2021. Quince jelly, lime marmalade, more citrus with a lovely green olive bitterness on finish. Lovely chalky finish. 2023-2028

Mas Gabriel Champ des Bleuets Languedoc 2021 92/100

Languedoc region. Vermentino 85%, Grenache Blanc 15% (13%)

The other white wine from Mas Gabriel. Peter used to make it with Grenache Gris but it was too heavy, he now uses Grenache Blanc instead. Very crisp citrus fruit with lovely floral overtones no doubt in reference to the wild cornflower, bleuet, which grows in the vineyard. An elegant and quietly understated style, more Chet Baker than Dizzy Gillespie. 2023-2026